Conservatkn ResouTOw 



CoDMrvitioii Rooarctt 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



Shirtwaist 
Edition 

ILLUSTRATED 
Price, 25 cts. 



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Gittcrtyl 
Filet 



:By: 



Anna M. Porter 




COPYRIGHTED 



Bv Anna M. Porter 



LIBRARY of CONGStSS 
Two Copies Heceiveu 

MAR 9 1905 

OopMigni tnlry 
CLASS a XXc. Noi 

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Norwegian Drawn Work 

A (llarbangrr) 



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SHIRTWAIST EDITION 



ALL ILLUSTRATIONS COPYRIGHTED 



The Norwegian drawn work which is called (Hardanger) 
has a large circle of friends in America and is not entirely new. 
Ages ago in Persia the ladies worked on fine and rare materi- 
als, with silk, these beautiful embroideries. To our grand- 
mothers, also, this was not a 
new work, but it did not have 
the pronounced character of to- 
day, and in connection with 
other drawn work it was varied 
with curved damask-like 
stitches, and was known in 
Italy as Punto-Tagliato and 
Punto-Rialto. 




«.\ 



The present work was first 
executed in Norway, a county 
on the southeast coast, hence 
the name. As curved lines are 
excluded from the technic only 
articles appropriate for Norwe- 
gian draw work (Hardanger) 
are chosen, such as curtains, 
bed-spreads, sofa pillows, cen- 
ter pieces, doilies, shirtwaists, 
collars, etc. 




ffj 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



Materials 

The cloth used for this work must be square woven, the 
threads of equal size either way, immaterial if coarser or finer, 
a material whose threads are easily drawn. 

We recommend the Hardanger linen, a strong weave with 
a dull finish, which is manufactured single or double thread, 
also single or double width. In the new weaves this linen is 
made in strips from two to five inches wide to accommodate 
different patterns and is especially suitable for the new shirt- 
waist sets so much in vogue at the present time. 




1. Outlining or Flat Stitch 





2. Darning Stitch 



3. Filling-in Stitch 



In the cotton goods the Sultan or Norwegian cloth, the 
Aida, the Camilla or Congress cloth, sometimes called scrim, 
and the Java cloth are used for table-covers, center pieces, sofa 
])illows, etc. The Cordova or Marly cloth is especially suitable 
for curtains or bed-spreads. 



Norweoiaii Drawn Work 



Shirtwaists and Shirtwaist Suits 

Original Designs by Anna M. Porter 



l^he most popular of 
all embroideries at the 
present time is Nor- 
wegian drawn work, 
(Hardanger), a work 
which is growing in 
favor and for the next 
few years and will be 
used extensively in our 
country for shirtwaist 
suits and dress trim- 
mings. If the worker 
is careful in laying out 
her pattern by actual 
count, not making mis- 
takes in the Kloster or 
flat stitches she will 
find no trouble in cut- 
ting her threads. The 
filling in stitches are 
easy and should be 
made to conform to the 
pattern used. The 
simpler stitches well 
made give a character 
to the work you can- 
not get by using a great 
variety of stitches. The 
trouble with many of 
our American women 
is using too many 
stitches on one piece, 
making of it a sampler 
instead of a handsome 
piece of work. 




■.I\ 










Norwegian Drawn Work 





All goods used for 
this work should be 
laundried before mak- 
ing up. After working 
the Kloster or flat 
stitch we wash and 
press the pieces, then 

.work the filling 
stitches. 

) The star design and 
other stitches used in 
Norwegian drawn 
work (Hardanger) are 
so plainly illustrated in 
the many center pieces 
given in this book we 
have no extra samplers 
of them. 

We give a space of 
several pages to shirt- 
waist and shirtwaist 
suit designs. Enlarged 
pattern of this design 
is given on page 28. 




Norwegian Drawn Work 



Stitches and TTieir Use 

Norweg-ian drawn work ( Hardangcr) uses few and simple 
stitches only. Principally the flat stitch and the darning stitcJi 
ornamented with Picots, Loops, Scallops, etc. 

The flat stitch (Cut No. i) runs always in the direction of 
the threads of the material horizontally or vertically and, with- 
out exception, is worked in groups. This stitch is always 
worked first and outlines the design. 




4. Buttonhole Stitch 



The darning stitch (Cut No. 2) is worked over the uncut 
threads left around the open spaces. In some designs a fancy 
stitch is worked in connection with the darning stitch as 
shown in Cut No. 3. This same stitch is used in Cut No. 8 ui 
connection with the picot. 

The Norwegian work is often finished with a hemstitched 
edge, but for those who prefer a worked edge Cut No. 4 shows 
an open scallop which is showy and pretty, but we recommend 
the close scallop as more serviceable. 

The foundation of Norwegian drawn work is a square. It 
may contain more or less threads, usually four each way. Each 
closed square has as many threads as the open space. In Cut 
No. I you see it takes fi\e stitches to cover four threads. This 
shows that one more stitch is necessary than the threads 
counted in each square. 

When a design is chosen the number of threads at ih.'i 
widest point are counted and must tally with the number ci 
threads in the piece of material used. 



6 Norwegian Drawn Work 

Embroidery THreads 

For the above named weaves the new strong mercerized 
thread, which comes in different sizes, is considered best and is 
highly recommended for washable pieces, as it retains its silky 
lustre, which makes it one of the most desirable threads in use. 

The Aurora or flat thread and the French embroidery cot- 
ton called Floche are much in demand and sometimes silk is 
used. 

Needles for this work must have a dull point. 

Scissors should be sharp with good points, as the threads 
must be cut close to the embroidery. 

A fine crochet hook to draw the threads is convenient and 
for large pieces an embroidery frame is necessary. 




Lace Edge for Side Board Cover. 



This design shows the simple combination of flat stitch, 
illustration i. with trellis bar or darning stitch, illustration 2, 
and works very rapidly. The material for this lace must be 
wider than pattern which counts 60 threads. The small open 
beading above the lace is worked with double back stitch. 



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Norwegian Drawn Work 




This shirtwaist worked on hnen Etamine needs little de- 
scription. The usual Kloster or flat stitch worked over four 
threads is the foundation of the star. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 





The above design is plainiy illustrated on page 13 and is 
worked on linen bands y/2 inches wide. Buttons to match. 
The collar is worked on a bias strip of linen. These designs 
can be enlarged with a magnifying glass. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




Box Plait Designs for 

Section of edge see (a and b) 
commence with straight band. 

21 stitches over 4 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 

21 stitches over 4 threads. 

13 stitches over 6 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 

13 stitches over 6 threads. 

88 threads is actual count of 
width of these designs. 

Open square in upper design 
counts 28 threads. Whole design 
covers 44 threads. 



Shirtwaists with Cuffs 

Section of edge see (c) com- 
mence with straight band. 
17 stitches over 4 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 
13 stitches over 6 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 
7 stitches over 6 threads. 
Open square in lower design 
counts 16 threads. These pat- 
terns need little description if 
edges are true to count. A mag- 
nifying glass will help in these 
designs. 



12 Norwegian Drawn Work 

These four centerpieces are worked on fine Camilla cloth, 
sometimes called scrim, and measures about 20 inches square. 
The designs can be enlarged by adding sections and are pretty 
for tea cloths and side board covers. 



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The cutit's given on opposite page are worked on linen 
strips 2^4 and 25^ inches wide. These strips are imported in 
widths measuring i^ to 3>4 inches. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



13 



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Variety of Buttons, Collars and Cuffs 



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Norwegian Drawn Work 




Lace work has its possibil- 
ities as a home work which 
will make a demand for it in 
the future. Many of the old 
patterns will be improved in 
the style of working them. 
Instead of the variety stitches 
will be worked with those 
poorly made the old new laces 
which give character to the 
design and perfection will be 
our keynote. 



The question often 
comes to us, does Har- 
dinger launder? Like 
other work, if the maker 
uses good material and 
does her work well, it is 
very serviceable. 



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These two handker- 
chiefs with several others 
were given in the Ladies' 
Home Journal in 1893. 
They are good illustra- 
tions of needle point and 
Honiton lace. The origi- 
nals have been washed 
many times and still look 
like new. They can be 
seen at our office, 44 
W est Twenty-second 
street, New York City. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



15 



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The small center 
piece in this illus- 
tration is one of the 
prettiest given in 
the book. It can be 
copied with little 
trouble on mercer- 
i z e d Hardanger. 
cloth, which comes 
for this work, and 
without the edge 
can be used as an in- 
sertion for shirt- 
waist suits. 



Lace Edge. 

This illustration is 
28 squares in width and 
requires 112 threads 
actual count. It is 
so plainly illustrated 
the worked will find no 
difficulty in getting the 
design. 

We have this pattern 
on a dresser cover 
worked in blue and as 
an insertion on cream 
imported scrim worked 
in white it is effective 
for shirtwaist. 




i6 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




The above design will be appropriate for sideboard covers, 
or above a hem in vertical strips, for a bed-spread. The fin- 
ished strip measures on one thread Hardanger linen 7 inches, 
on the double thread about 10 inches. 



Nor\veK;ian Drawn Work 



17 




Table Cover, One Yard Square 




Insertion and Edge (See illustrations 3 and 4) 



Norwearian Drawn Work 




liiseitioii iSce llliistiatioiis Below i 

The above insertion for dress trimmings, sideboard covers, 
etc., is effective and durable. First is worked tlie flat stitch, 
see ilhistration i, then the threads are cut and drawn for the 
open work, which is plainly shown in small illustrations given 
below. Each side is finished with a hem-stitched border. The 
small squares can be scalloped and used for pincushion tops, 
or in groups of four will make a pretty plate doily. 




Open-work Square 



Filled -in Square 



Norweaian Drawn Work 



19 




Border Design. 



This beautiful Ixjrder design is 12 inches wide, around a 
cover about one yard s(|uare, and is made on Hght yellow 
Marly cloth, a large open cotton weave, agreeable and easy to 
work. For the flat stitches Floche in yellow mercerized cotton 
is used, and white for the darning stitches. The center corner 
figure must be repeated four times to make one-fourth of this 
design. The Marly cloth should count to each side 450 threads 
at least. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




Large Pattern With Corner. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




This handsome bed spread, 
made from desig'n on opposite 
page, is worked on coarse white 
Cong-ress canvas or cream Mariy 
cloth. If Avorked on the canvas 
use coarse white mercerized cot- 
ton on cream Marly cloth. Very 
noticeable is the little point 
worked between the squares in 
the bed-spread. Each repetition 
of this design counts 120 stitches. 
The center of the bed-spread can 
be finished with a square like il- 
lustration 24, or, if preferred, an 
oblong piece made from the same 
design. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




This serviceable insertion pattern is especially etfective 
worked in all white on a strip of Hardang'er linen 6 inches 
wide, with white mercerized cotton, is a pretty shirtwaist de- 
sign. 

The actual count of pattern in width is 108 threads. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



23 




Enlarged Design of Center Piece given on page 33 



24 



Norwejjian Drawn Work 



cA^ 9y§^, 




Center Piece, Copied From Illustration on Page 20. 



This exquisite center piece sliows the completed pattern 
on page 20. The finished piece measures nearly two-thirds 
of a yard square, made on white Congress cloth. The small 
center can be left out if desired. The edge is worked over 
coarse, twisted thread, of which the loops are formed at regu- 
lar intervals. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



25 




Small Centers or Doilies. 

The above desi^'iis must lie crosswise on the cloth and are 
taken from illustration 20. It is necessary to allow one-third 
more material for these pieces. A finished doily, measuring 9 
inches, will require 12 inches of cloth. The designs are given 
so plainly in former illustrations we do not need to repeat 
them. 




Side Board Cover and Doily from Page 27. 
Norwegian drawn work has a rich eiTect on dark furniture, 
consecjuently this technic is used to good advantage for side- 
board covers, dressing and toilet tables, table centers, etc. The 
decided firm angular lines do not allow plaiting or draping. 
This sideboard cover is i^ yards long and ^ yard wide. The 
doily measures 6 inches finished. A good Hardanger linen 
makes a most serviceable cover. 



26 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



Large Designs For Bed Spreads, 
Curtains, Etc. 

The enlarged pattern of 

center piece on page 2^ 

s h o \v s the 

corner square 

of the same, 

the following 

smaller points 



with the star 
figure, is repro- 
duced on side- 
board cover, il- 
lustration 25. 
This pattern is 
so plainly illus- 
trated it needs 
little descrip- 
tion. 




Large Designs for Bed Spreads, Curtains, etc. (See Pages 25 and 27) 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



27 




Square or Oblong Center. 



The above design, worked on 
fine white cotton material, 
is about I yard square. 
The sides contain five 
large squares, in- 
ckiding the cor- 
n e r s. This 
Center is 
worke 
with 
ni e r- 
c e r- 
ized 
cotton 
i n t \v o 
sizes, the 
finer for the 
darning stitches, 
and in all white is 
durable and efifective. a 
any piece made, as it laun- 
ders well. 




Open Ground Work Design. 

This illustration shows 
part of the design of 
one of the large 
scpiares in the 
above center 
])iece, also 
p r e 1 1 \- 
with a 
but 
ton 
hole 
edge 
for small 
doilies. It 
can be used 
to advantage as 
a lace edge in com- 
bination with other 
stitches. See illustra- 



^l^y^ tion above. 
Open Ground Work Design. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



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Insertion For Shirtwaists 
This insertion can be worked to advantage on any of the 
finer goods used for the Norwegian drawn work, linen pre- 
ferred, same as used for the new shirtwaists. As this insertion 
is about 8 inches wide the cloth should count at least 150 
threads at widest parts. The star center on opposite page is 
used as the center of these medallions. 




Sofa Pillow With Wide Insertion. 
Exclusively rich and beautiful is the embroidery on this 
sofa pillow, for which illustration on opposite page furnishes a 
part in almost natural size. The material is linen, in white or 
colors, worked with white mercerized cotton. The ruffle is 
made from the same linen, about 5 inches wide finished with 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



29 



a narrow border, see illustration i. Ilie same border can be 
used as a finish for the insertion. 




Wide Insertion. (See Page 28) 
This handsome insertion, which can be used for bed- 
spreads, curtains, sofa pillows or as a dress garniture, i:- 
worked on coarser or finer cloth and will make a wider or nar- 
rower strip, as desired. On our regular shirtwaist linen it will 
measure about 10 inches, and including the row of back 
stitches, needs 188 threads actual count. 



30 



Norwegian Drawn Work 






1 

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H 



tUiiiAl*itiiAli*ilimiimiiiiilAim«i4 



These designs are plainly illustrated on opposite page and 
need little description. The doilies are worked crosswise on 
the goods and require a piece of cloth 3^ larger in size than 




actual count of threads used in pattern. The design given on 
opposite page is peculiarly adapted to a sideboard cover, if 
made on white linen, and, with any of the above doilies, will 
make an acceptable gift. 



Norwegian Drawn Work- 



Si 




32 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




Center Piece or Table Cover For Dining Room. 



The above pattern worked on colored coarse weaved 
goods with colored embroidery cottons, leaving the spaces un- 
cut and filled in with the flat stitch instead of the darning 
stitch, is especially suitable and efifective as a cover for a din- 
ing room table, and should measure about two yards square. 
The edge can be finished as described in illustration, or one of 
the pretty fancy stitches can be used in place of the hem-stitch- 
ing. Worked like the above design on white linen this pattern 
can be used as a center piece, or as an insertion on a sideboard 
cover. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



Fancy Center of Col- 
ored Material. See 
page 32. 

Norweg-ian drawn 
effective 
work is 
worked o n 
colored ma- 



33 

dark background 
This cloth meas- 
ures about 27 in- 
ches is worked on 
Java cloth. 
The pattern 
allows fre- 
quent repe- 
tition. 




terial as is 
shown i n 
the above illus 
t r a t i o n, on 
w h i c h the 
cream embroid- 
ery stands out 
in relief from a 

Center Piece 

This effective cen- 
ter piece, measuring 
abotit 24 inches, is 
made on cream Con 
gress can- 
\ ass, each 
point 
c o ti nting 
24 threads, 
for illus. 
see page 23, 
measuring 
less than i}i inches. 
Each side consists of 
15 points, including 
the two corners. The 
actual number of 




Worked on 
white linen 
without border 
this design 
would be effec- 
tive for the new 
style shirtwaist 
suits. 

threads used in the em- 
broidery is 360 and re- 
quires a piece of canvas 
counting 400 tlireads 
square. The button hole 
edge is work- 
ed over a 
coarse twist- 
ed thread 
which forms 
the loop s. 
The dice, 
forming tlie 
)order can be 
outlined in black. Use 
mercerized cotton. This 
design is plainly illus- 
trated on page 2;^. 



34 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



Gittertyl 

("GITTER-TULLE.") 

This word of Danish origin translated (Gitter) mesh, 
square even mesh, (tulle) light mesh, by us called Fillet-net. 
The net for this work is nearly two yards wide and can be used 
to advantage for curtains, bed spreads, dresser covers, etc. 
Some are making shirt waists of it, but we doubt if it will be 
very popular for that purpose this season. We recommend 
the cream or white F'illet-net in preference to the colored net. 
The center piece given on this page is worked on a square of 
net measuring 34 inches, this star effect will be used on many 
of the shirt waist patterns. The only stitch used is the simple 
darning stitch, which is woven back and forth in each mesh, 
except the drawn work stitch which is above the hem. 




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Norwegian Drawn Work 



35 



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Sampler of Stitches 



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Sofa Pillow 



36 



Norwegian Drawn Work 







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This illustration is one of 
the prettiest and first designs 
imported several years ago. It 
can be used as an insertion for 
shirt waists or in detached 
scjuares the effect is exquisite. 
We are importing a special net 
for shirt waists which is more 
sheer than the net used for 
home decoration which will be 
i)n sale some time this spring. 




Norwegian Drawn Work 



37 




Centre Piece 






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Sideboard Cover 



38 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



The illustrations of fillet-net work given on pages 35, 36 
and 37 need little description. Many of the stitches given in the 
sampler are efitectively worked in the spaces. The pattern is 
outlined with a silk braid with cord on the edge which gives a 
rich finish to the work These patterns come stamped on the 




fillet-net. The above illustration is worked by counting the 
spaces and darning the stitches back and forth with mercerized 
cotton. Any cross stitch design can be worked with this darn- 
ing stitch. The above pattern is exquisitively handsome used 
as a curtain border. The darned stitches are worked on the 
bias as well as on straight net. 



Norwegian Drawn Work 



39 



These collar and cuff sets are one of the popular novelties 
for the coming season. They are not new as we worked them 
in white for the Christmas trade. At the present time they 
are worked in colors, etc., one set is worked all red, others in 




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two or three shades, browns, blues or other desirable colors. 
The edge illustrated on left hand corner can be used as an in- 
sertion for shirtwaists. 



40 



Norwegian Drawn Work 




Dresser Cover 



J^^f^'! 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 001 405 2 # 







HEDEBO 

^^The Danish Work (peasant work), 
called Hedebo, to be introduced next 
season, for Collars, Shirtwaists, etc., 
will share the laurels already won by 
Norwegian Drawn Work, the latter of 
which will be more popular than at 
present. 



KINMONTH PRESS, ASE 



PABK. N. J. 



CoDMrvatkn Resoincw 
LiB-Fm^1>peI 
PhS^Bulbred 



aSDhTDDEDDD 



SSaHONOD JO AHY)ian 



